Hello, and welcome to my 3rd free sewing pattern for a skirt. I’m certainly baffled by how popular my skirt sewing tutorials have been, especially compared to my other posts…but hey I’m not complaining don’t you worry. In fact, I do have yet another skirt tutorial in mind, I just don’t currently have the necessary space in my budget to buy the fabric for it.
Yes, I am going to buy new fabric for it. So far all of my sewing blog posts have been me using fabric that’s already in my stash. But, for this style of skirt, I am going to need quite a bit of fabric that I just do not currently have. I’m very eager to browse a fabric store again, I actually can’t remember the last time I had to go and buy fabric lol. It’s probably been over a year, I think. So I guess I’m overdue for some fabric shopping even if I do say so myself!
Enough rambling though.
As you can already tell by the title, this skirt also includes pockets. Although, as always they are optional. I may or may not give you some side-eye if you don’t include them though….
For this easy gathered skirt you will need some kind of lightweight woven fabric. To no one’s surprise, I am once again using cotton. It’s soft without being slippery which makes it an easy fabric to work with, especially for sewing beginners. By the way, this is a great project if you’re on the newer side to sewing and you’d love to make yourself a skirt. But there are practically endless options to choose from when it comes to lightweight woven fabrics so I’m sure you can find something that’s easy for you to work with and pretty as well.
You will need:
- chalk or a fabric marker
- measuring tape
- grading ruler
- fabric scissors
- 1m/1.1 yards fabric
- thread that matches your chosen fabric
- embroidery thread or thin yarn
- unpicker
- 1.5cm/0.6 inch wide elastic that fits around your hips/waist (this was all I had at home but I would recommend a width of at least 2.5cm/1 inch)
- fusile interfacing
- an iron
- 2 safety pins
- sewing machine
How to Cut Out the Fabric Pieces for the Easy Gathered Skirt with Pockets
Step 1
First things first you need to measure the circumference of your waist. My waist is (currently) 63cm/24.8 inches.
Now, when it comes to gathering, you want your piece of fabric between 1.5 and 3 times bigger than what it will be gathered to (in this case the fabric is gathered to your waist).
For this sewing pattern I’m choosing to multiply my waist measurement by 3 to get the width of my skirt piece(s). So 63 multiplied by 3 is 189.
Then I will half this so I can cut out a front and back skirt piece, and then add 3cm/1.2 inches to each side for the seam allowance. I am sewing French seams but if you want to do regular seams your seam allowance just needs to be 2cm/0.8 inches. Half of 189 is 94.5, and with seam allowance added it’s 97.5 which I’ll just round up to 98cm/38.6 inches for my width.
Now the length depends on your own preference, of course. For this skirt I’m going to make it 40cm/15.7 inches long, including a hem allowance of 1cm/0.4 inches. Remember you can always cut it shorter later but making it longer will require more work, if not starting over from the beginning.
So I basically cut out 2 pieces for the skirt, each 98 by 40cm/38.6 by 15.7 inches.
Step 2
For the pockets I am simply going to cut out 4 kidney bean shapes, as shown in the image below. The pocket opening is 17cm/6.7 inches. The length of the pocket is about 30cm/11.8 inches. This includes a seam allowance of 1.5cm/0.6 inches around each rectangle. (I am sewing French seams but if you want to do regular seams your seam allowance just needs to be 1cm/0.4 inches)
You can also use these measurements just remember that I have small hands so make sure that your hand and your cell phone can fit inside the pocket. And anything else you need to carry around with you.
Step 3
Lastly, we need to cut out the waistband. Remember that the waistband needs to be able to go over your hips before it will be cinched in by the elastic inside.
I made my waistband 95cm/37.4 long. This length includes 2cm/0.8 inches seam allowance as well.
For the width you need to double the width of your elastic, mine is 1.5cm/0.6 inches, and then add about 3cm/1.2 inches for seam allowance and ease so that the waistband isn’t too tight around the elastic. So 1.5 doubled is 3, plus 3, which means my waistband width is 6cm/2.4 inches.
To sum it up my waistband is 95 by 6cm/37.4 by 2.4 inches. And you also need to cut out a piece of fusible interfacing that’s the same measurements as your waistband. Simply place the interfacing glue side down onto the wrong side of your waistband and use an iron to attach it.
How to Sew the Easy Gathered Skirt with Pockets & an Elastic Waistband
How to Sew the Pockets
Step 1
Sew the pocket piece wrong sides together along the skirt side seam with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. You can curve the side seams of the skirt if you are sewing French seam otherwise you can skip it.
If you want to sew a regular seam just join the pocket pieces right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance and go to Step 3.
Step 2
Then iron/press the pocket and the skirt piece so that they are right sides together and sew with about 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance. Press so that the pocket and its seam are facing outwards. Repeat Steps 1 & 2 for the rest of the pockets.
Step 3
Place the front and back skirt pieces wrong sides together and sew with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. Cut small notches along the curved seams to make it easier for you to turn it out.
Step 4
Place the front and back skirt pieces right sides together and sew with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance.
How to Sew the Easy Gathered Skirt
Step 1
Using the longest stitch on your sewing machine, sew 2 parallel lines across the top of your skirt. The 1st line should be 0.5cm/0.2 inches from the fabric edge. And the 2nd line should be 0.5cm/0.2 inches from the 1st line. Make sure to leave the threads at the beginning and ends of your sewing loose, don’t backtrack or tie any knots.
Step 2
Pull on the ends of the thread to gather your shirt. The skirt needs to be gathered so it can fit to the waistband, and you need to play with the gathers so they are even and one part is not more bunched up than another.
Step 3
Hem the bottom of the skirt by folding over 0.5cm/0.2 inch and sewing it down. Then fold over again and sew once more so that all the raw fabric edges are sealed away.
How to Sew the Elastic Waistband
Step 1
Sew the waistband into a loop right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance. Press the seam so it lays open.
Step 2
Now sew the waistband to the gathered part of the skirt, right sides together and sew with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance. Make sure that your gathers are even across the whole skirt, and be careful not to sew the yarn down as we need to remove it afterwards.
Step 3
Fold and press a hem of about 0.5cm/0.2 inches on the waistband. Then fold the waistband in half so that the elastic will fit inside and press again.
Step 4
Sink stitch the waistband closed, making sure to sew in the waistband seam, just leave about 10cm /4 inches unfinished so you can insert the elastic.
Step 5
Now measure the elastic around your waist, or wherever you want the pants to sit, making sure that the fit is snug but that the elastic can still stretch over your hips.
Step 6
Using a safety pin, insert the elastic into the waistband and pull it around until you reach the other side. Make sure the elastic has not rotated and is laying flat around the waistband before sewing it in this criss cross square to properly secure it.
Step 7
Lastly, seal the waistband shut using the same sink stitch as in Step 4.
More Free Fairycore Sewing Tutorials
I have a free sewing tutorial for a simple slip dress with adjustable tie straps, made with the same fabric as my simple half circle skirt with pockets. I plan to wear this slip dress under the skirt to create another fairycore outfit.
If you are looking for another fairycore skirt here is my tiered maxi skirt pattern that also has an elastic waistband and pockets. So far I have one tutorial for a more formal fairycore dress which is the red satin slip dress with organza ruffles (and pockets of course!). And for a more casual fairycore dress here is a maxi dress with a ruffle at the bottom or the adjustable dress with a tie front.
And if skirts or dresses are too feminine for you, there’s always the free patterns for patchwork pants, simple shorts, or the summery trousers with ribbon side ties! All of those tutorials include elastic waistbands and pockets.
There is also the tutorial for flower cut-outs which are an easy way to upcycle an existing garment into something more whimsically fairycore.
For autumn or winter wear I have a sewing tutorial for a simple turtleneck with ruching side ties. And I also have another tutorial for a top, this time for warmer weather, this one is satin and has adjustable spaghetti straps.
Don’t forget that your undergarments can be whimsically fairycore too, and this easy lace bralette is the perfect place to start.
If you’re looking for quick & easy fairycore sewing project that you can gift or even sell look no further than the fairycore scrunchies!
Another Whimsical Sewing Pattern
If you’re looking for more sewing projects with fairycore flair here’s my patchwork hearts cushion, a quick sewing pattern you can whip up using fabric scraps to transform your décor from mundane to memorable.
DIY not AI
If you are sick and tired of being bamboozled by those too perfect AI images and want some inspiration from actual human beings, my Pinterest board, DIY NOT AI, awaits. This is the link, AKA magical portal, that will take you there. DIY NOT AI is also a group board that is OPEN TO CONTRIBUTORS!!! Whether you’re a crocheter, seamstress, knitter, or any other kind of DIY/handicraft creator this is The Place for you to promote your work to people who appreciate REAL quality over quantity. So what are you waiting for? Shoot me a dm on Pinterest to be added!
If you have any more ideas for sewing patterns you would like to see from me just let me know in the comments below!
Lots of love & light,
Maria