Hello, and welcome to another free sewing pattern that’s just perfect for the spring or summer (or even layered over leggings and a turtleneck for colder weather). This dress is fully adjustable in three different ways: from the straps with slider adjusters, to the tie front bust pieces to the shirred waistband. And, as always, it includes pockets!
I used a lightweight woven cotton fabric for this fairycore dress and of course I would recommend you also use a lightweight woven fabric made of a natural fibre. Since this dress has so many adjustable working details it’s pretty pointless to make it out of a stretchy knit fabric. And thicker fabrics won’t work as well when it comes to the shirring or the tie front bodice. I also used French seams in this tutorial as opposed to regular seams so all my raw edges would be hidden away. Of course, it’s totally up to you what seams you would like to do.
If you choose to download the pdf of this tutorial please note that some of the pictures aren’t included as the pdf size is restricted to 10MB. However, all the images will always be available to you on this blog post.
You will need:
- chalk or a fabric marker
- fabric scissors
- 2m/2.2 yards fabric
- shirring elastic
- thread that matches your chosen fabric
- 1cm (0.4 inch) wide elastic for the underbust
- 2 safety pins
- sewing machine
- an iron
- those metal adjusters usually used for bra straps
How to Cut Out Your Fabric Pieces
Step 1
Cut out 2 pieces of your fabric for the main part of the dress: each 72 by 70cm/28.3 by 27.6 inches.
Step 2
Cut out 4 pocket pieces, using the image below as a guide for the shape. My pocket openings were 14cm/5.5 inches wide. I made my pockets extra wide because I’m going to be using French seams throughout this project.
Step 4
Cut out 4 bust pieces. The reason for this is because each bust piece is going to be lined. The image below shows the measurements that I used but obviously you need to use your own measurements so that it fits you. Just remember that it’s always easier to make it smaller than bigger so if you are unsure make it on the larger side.
Step 5
I also cut out extensions for the bust pieces that are 10cm/4 inches wide. This is because I simply didn’t have enough fabric to cut out each bust piece in its entirety. I joined the bust piece and the extension by sewing them right sides together with a 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. And of course I pressed the seam flat. And then repeated those steps for all the bust pieces.
Step 6
Lastly, cut out strips of fabric 4cm/1.6 inches wide for the straps and the binding for the seams. Each strap was about 70cm/27.6 inches long and the binding was about 140cm/55.1 inches long. Remember it’s always best to cut too long than too short!
How to Sew the Pockets
I am sewing French seams here to hide all of the raw edges but if you prefer to do regular seams just sew the pieces right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance.
Step 1
Sew each pocket to a skirt piece wrong sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. Trim off the excess seam allowance. Then fold and press so the seam you just sewed is hidden away and the fabric pieces are right sides together. Repeat for all 4 of the pockets.
I curved the skirt seams so that the pocket seam would be more hidden.
Step 2
Now sew each pocket piece to the skirt right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance. Iron the seam flat so that it’s folded away from the skirt as shown in the image below. Repeat for all 4 of the pockets.
How to Sew the Skirt of the Dress
Step 1
Fold over the top of each skirt piece 0.5cm/0.2 inch and then fold over again just under 2cm/ 0.8 inch and sew it down as close to the edge as possible. This will be the channel for inserting the underbust elastic. Repeat for the other skirt piece.
Step 2
Now you can sew the rows of shirring. Each row should be about 1cm/0.4 inches apart, and I did 11 rows of shirring. This is because the bottom of the underbust elastic casing to my waist is about 11 rows. Of course you can always do more or less rows depending on your own body and personal preference. I used this youtube tutorial to teach me how to do shirring. Remember to sew the rows of shirring on the other skirt piece too.
Step 3
Measure your elastic under your bust so it fits snugly but can still stretch over your shoulders or hips. Then cut the elastic in half. Use a safety pin to insert each piece of elastic into one of the channels you have sewn in Step 1 and sew to secure the elastic at either end.
Step 4
Sew the sides of the skirt and the pockets wrong sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. Trim off the excess seam allowance. Cut notches up to the seam at the curves of the pocket to help it lay flat when you turn it out.
Then fold and press so the seam you just sewed is hidden away and the fabric pieces are right sides together. Repeat for the other side.
Step 4
Now sew the skirt sides right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side as well.
How to Sew the Bottom Ruffle
I decided to add a bottom ruffle to this dress because when I tried the dress on it was a bit too long for my liking. So either you can cut your bottom ruffle from the skirt, or from your fabric. My ruffles are 14cm/5.5 inches long including hem allowance and about 288cm/113.4 inches wide also including seam allowance.
Step 1
Make sure you have sewn all the ruffle pieces together along the 14cm/5.5 inches length using a French seam or a regular seam.
Step 2
Hem the ruffle by folding over 0.5cm/0.2 inch of fabric and sewing close to the edge. Then fold over another 0.5cm/0.2 inch so the raw edges are hidden and sew that down too.
Step 3
Now use the longest stitch length on your sewing machine (mine is 4) and sew 2 parallel lines on the other side of your ruffle. Make sure not to backtrack or tie knots because you need to pull the loose threads to create the gathers. Also do not sew over the seams as that will make it impossible to gather the fabric. These parallel lines of stitching should be within your 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance.
Step 4
Once you have used the loose threads to gather the ruffle so it fits to the bottom of the dress’ skirt, you can sew the ruffle to the skirt right sides together with 1cm/0.5 inch seam allowance. Then you can leave the seam unfinished, overlock or zig-zag stitch it, or sew binding as detailed in Steps 5 & 6.
Step 5
Sew the right side of the binding to the wrong side of the ruffle seam with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance.
Step 6
Then fold the binding over 1cm/0.4 inch and fold over once more so that the seam is now enclosed. Sew it as close to the fold as you can.
How to Sew the Bust Pieces
Sew 2 bust pieces right sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance, leaving the 27cm/10.6 inches side open so you can turn it out. Once you have turned it out, press/iron it so it lays flat. Repeat for the other bust piece.
As you can see in the image below, I shortened the bust piece because it was too long. And I made the front tie part form a point as I think it looks better when it’s tied. Remember to cut off the tip of the seam allowance so it will be pointy when you turn it out.
The measurement between the point and the extension seam is about 15cm/6 inches.
How to Sew the Straps
Step 1
Sew each strap piece to the outer edge of a bust piece, right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance. At the bottom of the bust piece you can fold over the strap piece so the raw edge will be hidden later. Repeat for the other bust piece.
Step 2
Now fold the other side of each strap down just under 1cm/0.4 inch and press using your iron. Then fold over each strap in half so all the raw edges are hidden inside and press once more. Now you can sew the straps closed as close to the folded edges as possible.
Step 3
Now sew each bust piece to the skirt, just above the elastic channel. This part is tricky because you will need to stretch out the skirt piece as you sew. I put the bust piece and the skirt piece right sides (outer sides) together and sewed as close to the edge as I could. You want to join the bust piece to the side seam of the skirt where you have just sewn the part for the straps. The seam I sewed to join each bust piece to the skirt was only about 15cm/ 6 inches long so there would be space to tie the bust pieces together.
After trying on the dress I realised I needed to (partially) redo the way I had joined the bust pieces. Basically I needed to hide the excess on the side of each bust piece. So I unpicked my seam, and then sewed it again as you can see in the image below. Whether or not you need to do this depends on your body and your own self drafting skills.
Step 4
Cut off about 10cm/4 inches off each of the ends of the straps. These short pieces will be used as loops to hold the circle adjuster pieces to the back of the dress. Insert a short strap piece into the circle adjuster piece and then sew it to the back of the dress, about halfway between the side seam and the centre back of the dress (so a quarter of the back piece). I cut the short strap pieces longer so I could fold over the raw edges when I attached it to the dress. Make sure not to sew the elastic when you attach it.
Step 5
Now take one of the straps and thread it through the metal adjuster with the bar running through the middle. Then pull the strap through the circle adjuster piece and wrap it around the metal bar from the other metal adjuster. Here is an image to guide you because I’m probably not the best at explaining how to do it lol. Once you have pulled the strap through, sew it down to secure it. Then repeat for the other strap and your adjustable tie front dress is complete at last!
More Free Fairycore Sewing Tutorials
I have a free sewing tutorial for a simple slip dress with adjustable tie straps, made with the same fabric as my simple half circle skirt with pockets. I plan to wear this slip dress under the skirt to create another fairycore outfit.
If you are looking for another fairycore skirt here is my tiered maxi skirt pattern that also has an elastic waistband and pockets. So far I have one tutorial for a more formal fairycore dress which is the red satin slip dress with organza ruffles (and pockets of course!). And for a more casual fairycore dress here is a maxi dress with a ruffle at the bottom.
And if skirts or dresses are too feminine for you, there’s always the free patterns for patchwork pants, simple shorts, or the summery trousers with ribbon side ties! All of those tutorials include elastic waistbands and pockets.
There is also the tutorial for flower cutouts which are an easy way to upcycle an existing garment into something more whimsically fairycore.
If you’re looking for quick & easy fairycore sewing project that you can gift or even sell look no further than the fairycore scrunchies.
And for autumn or winter wear I have a sewing tutorial for a simple turtleneck top with ruching side ties.
DIY not AI
If you are sick and tired of being bamboozled by those too perfect AI images and want some inspiration from actual human beings, my Pinterest board, DIY NOT AI, awaits. This is the link, AKA magical portal, that will take you there. DIY NOT AI is also a group board that is OPEN TO CONTRIBUTORS!!! Whether you’re a crocheter, seamstress, knitter, or any other kind of DIY/handicraft creator this is The Place for you to promote your work to people who appreciate REAL quality over quantity. So what are you waiting for? Shoot me a dm on Pinterest to be added!
If you have any more ideas for sewing patterns you would like to see from me just let me know in the comments below!
Lots of love & light,
Maria