Hello, and welcome to another free sewing tutorial. This is only my 3rd sewing pattern for bottoms that are pants/shorts but it is my first tutorial for shorts so I figured I would start with something simple. Not too simple though as these shorts will certainly have pockets as well as an elastic waistband. But, unlike the waistband, the pockets are technically optional. Although I would give you an odd look if you chose NOT to include pockets. No offense intended of course.
These simple shorts are made with a medium(ish) weight woven cotton fabric that, sadly, creases WAY too easily. But it’s in my stash and it is a lovely green so I just had to use it. And I do need shorts, after all. So try to choose a lightweight woven fabric that doesn’t crease quite so easily if you’re clever.
You will need:
- a loose pair of shorts/pants with an elastic waistband
- chalk or a fabric marker
- fabric scissors
- 2m/2.2 yards fabric
- thread that matches your chosen fabric
- 1.2cm (0.5 inch) wide elastic for the waistband
- 2 safety pins
- sewing machine
How to Cut Out Your Shorts Fabric Pieces
Step 1
Turn your pair of shorts/pants inside out and fold in half and place on top of your fabric. Use a piece of chalk to trace around it, leaving space for the seam allowance, which is usually 1cm/0.4 inch. But if you want to do French seams make your seam allowance 1.5cm/0.6 inch. You can make the shorts as short or long as you want. Remember you can always cut them shorter if you want but you can’t easily make them longer!
Make sure to trace and cut out 2 front pieces and 2 back pieces for your shorts.
Step 2
Next you need to cut out your waistband. Measure the top of your front and back pieces and add those measurements together to get the length of your waistband. Subtract the seam allowance (which will be 4 multiplied by either 1cm/0.4 inch or 1.5cm/0.6 inch) from this measurement. Then add 2cm/0.8 inch seam allowance for the waistband. My waistband was 90 by 10cm/35.4 by 3.9 inches. I also cut out fusible interfacing with the same dimensions as my waistband.
Step 3
Cut out 4 pocket pieces, each 14 by 22cm/5.5 by 8.7 inches. Only if you are sewing pockets obviously.
How to Sew the Pockets
Step 1
Sew a pocket rectangle to the side front of the shorts right sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. On my shorts the length of the diagonal seam was 15.5cm, which was 7.5cm/3 inches and 10cm/4 inches away from the original corner of the front of the shorts. Repeat for the pocket on the other side. Then iron/press the seam so it’s folded towards the pocket bag.
Step 2
Sew an understitch over the pocket and the seam, close to the seam.
Step 3
Sew the other pocket piece to the attached pocket piece wrong sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. Only sew along the bottom of the pocket and along the side of the pocket. I chose to sew a curve along the corner but you can sew a regular corner too.
The other pocket sides will be sewn closed in the side seam of the shorts or the waistband. If you would like to do regular seams then just do those and skip Step 4.
Step 4
Trim off excess seam allowance from the pockets and cut notches in the seam along the curve. Turn out the pockets and press/iron so that the Step 3 seam is enclosed. Then sew the pockets again with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance. Now all the raw fabric edges are hidden away neatly.
Step 5
Lastly, for the pockets at least, sew each pocket to the front of the shorts along the side and top to keep everything in place.
How to Sew the Simple Shorts
For this project I chose to do French seams, but you are free to do regular seams (just sew the fabric pieces right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance).
Step 1
Sew each front short piece to the corresponding back piece, using a French seam (as shown in the previous section) or a regular seam. Remember to press your seam after you’ve sewn it.
Step 2
Sew the 2 halves of the shorts together by sewing along the crotch, using a French seam or a regular seam. Remember to press your seam after you’ve sewn it.
Step 3
Sew the sides of the shorts together, using a French seam or a regular seam. Remember to press your seam after you’ve sewn it.
Step 4
First try on the shorts to see how short/long they are and if you like the length. Remember that after the shorts are hemmed they will be even shorter. If you are happy with the length then fold the hem of the shorts up by about 0.5cm/0.2 inch and press. Then fold the hem up again by about 1cm/0.4 inch and press again. Then sew as close as you can to the folded edge to hem your shorts and have all the raw fabric edges hidden away.
How to Sew the Elastic Waistband
If you would like to sew a regular elastic waistband, follow the steps here in the patchwork pants tutorial.
Step 1
Attach the fusible interfacing to the waistband by ironing it. This will help ensure your waistband fabric doesn’t fray and remains sturdy. Then sew the waistband into a loop right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance. Now, press this seam open as shown in the image below. Then fold the waistband in half lengthwise and press again.
Step 2
Now sew 3 parallel lines on the waistband, about 1.5cm/ inch apart, which will be the channels to insert the elastic. Make sure to leave about 10cm/4 inches of each channel unfinished so you can insert the elastic.
Step 3
Use a safety pin to insert the elastic into each channel, and use the other safety pin to stop the other end of the elastic from getting lost in the fabric channel. You can join the ends of the elastic by sewing them together once the elastic is inserted completely. Then you can sew each channel closed. Repeat for the other 2 elastics and their corresponding channels. And now your simple shorts with pockets are finally complete!
Step 4
Sew the elasticated waistband to the shorts with the waistband along the right side of the shorts. You’ll have to stretch out the waistband as you sew along the bottom channel line. Then you can finish off this seam using a zig-zag stitch or overlocking or binding like I did in my maxi dress with elasticated straps tutorial.
More Free Fairycore Sewing Tutorials
I have a free sewing tutorial for a simple slip dress with adjustable tie straps, made with the same fabric as my simple half circle skirt with pockets. I plan to wear this slip dress under the skirt to create another fairycore outfit.
If you are looking for another fairycore skirt here is my tiered maxi skirt pattern that also has an elastic waistband and pockets. So far I have one tutorial for a more formal fairycore dress which is the red satin slip dress with organza ruffles (and pockets of course!).
And if skirts or dresses are too feminine for you, there’s always the free pattern for summery trousers with ribbon side ties!
You can also make any existing item of clothing more whimsical/fairycore using this tutorial for flower cut outs with ribbon ties.
If you’re looking for quick & easy fairycore sewing project that you can gift or even sell look no further than the fairycore scrunchies.
DIY not AI
If you are sick and tired of being bamboozled by those too perfect AI images and want some inspiration from actual human beings, my Pinterest board, DIY NOT AI, awaits. This is the link, AKA magical portal, that will take you there. DIY NOT AI is also a group board that is OPEN TO CONTRIBUTORS!!! Whether you’re a crocheter, seamstress, knitter, or any other kind of DIY/handicraft creator this is The Place for you to promote your work to people who appreciate REAL quality over quantity. So what are you waiting for? Shoot me a dm on Pinterest to be added!
And that’s all for today folks! If you have any questions please comment below and I, or perhaps a kind internet stranger, will assist you.
Lots of love & light,
Maria