How to Sew an Easy Satin Slip Dress with Ruffles

Hello, and welcome to another free tutorial where you will learn how to sew an easy satin slip dress that is cut on the bias (more on that in a minute). In my ambitious quest to use my considerable fabric stash I used some red satin fabric and red organza tablecloths, that were given to me, for this slip dress. I chose to add ruffles for some fairycore flair but they are optional of course.

Although the fabric in this tutorial is satin, this project will be easier because a slip dress is loose fitting and does not have complex pieces to sew together. The final slip dress will also have some slight stretch to it because it was cut on the bias. And you can even add waist ties to make the slip dress more fitted if you want. Due to the tendency of satin and organza to fray at the drop of the hat, this pattern makes use of French seams, so the seam allowance needs to be 1.5cm/0.6 inch for all the fabric pieces you cut.

Some tips for sewing satin & organza (or other slippery fabrics)

  • Use a smaller sewing machine needle size such as 80/12, instead of 90/14
  • Make sure that your pins and sewing machine needle are sharp so they don’t create snags (fabrics like satin and organza snag easily)
  • Use a lower iron temperature as satin and organza are synthetic and can melt at high temperatures
  • When folding satin/organza to cut out your pattern pieces, use pins to stop the fabric from shifting around
  • Use clover clips (shown in the image below) instead of pins as the clips won’t slip out or leave holes, unlike pins

You will need:

  1. 125 by 115cm/49.2 by 45.3 inches of satin fabric
  2. 2 pieces of organza each 96 by 145cm/37.8 by 57.1 inches
  3. Thread matching your fabrics
  4. Fusible interfacing

How to cut out the satin & organza fabric pieces for the slip dress

How to cut out the satin pieces

Here is the list of satin fabric pieces you will need. Detailed instructions for how to cut the pieces will follow.

  1. 2 dress pieces
  2. 4 pockets (optional)
  3. 2 hem facings
  4. 2 neckline facings
  5. fusible interfacing for the hem & neckline facings
Step 1

Fold your satin fabric diagonally so you can cut the slip dress on the bias.

This will give the dress a bit of stretch so it can almost mold to your body. And it will give the satin a lovely drape as well. I used a slip dress of mine as a pattern and turned it inside out then folded it in half before tracing around it. Then I also chose to do a slanted hem for my slip dress but you can do a straight hem instead. I also extended the sides of the slip dress about 2.5cm/1 inch for the pocket openings. The pocket openings are 16cm/6.3 inches wide.

sew easy red satin slip dress with pocket openings

Width of satin dress including seam allowance = 64cm/25.2 inches

Step 2

The pockets are 16cm6.3 inches at the widest point, tapering to 14cm/5.5 inches at the end. And the pockets are 22cm/8.7 inches long. All these measurements include the seam allowance. I rounded the corners as well as a personal preference.

Step 3

The facings for the neckline and the hem of the slip dress should be 5cm/2 inches wide, including seam allowance. There should be 2 facings for the neckline and 2 facings for the hem.

How to cut out the organza ruffle pieces

Here is a list of the number of organza pieces you will need to cut:

  1. 3 pieces for the bottom ruffles
  2. 2 pieces for the waist ties
  3. 2 pieces for the straps
  4. additional decorative ruffles
Step 1 – cut out the first bottom ruffle piece

total width of the satin dress- 6cm seam allowance = 122cm

122cm/3 = 40.67 40.67+3cm seam allowance = 43.67

Radius of quarter circle = (43.67 multiplied by 2)/3.14 = 27.81 which I will round to 28cm (11 inches) as the radius i will use for cutting this ruffle piece. The length of this ruffle piece is 69cm/27.2 inches.

Step 2 – cut out the second bottom ruffle piece(s)

So the longest part of this ruffle piece will be 69cm/27.2 inches, as it will be joined to the first ruffle piece you cut in step 1. The radius will be 28cm/11 inches, the same as Step 2.

I cut this piece in half along the horizontal fabric fold at the top of the photo. The hem will be asymmetrical which is what I had in mind for this satin slip dress.

Step 3 – cutting out the ties

I cut 2 pieces for the ties: each 9cm/3.5 inches wide (including seam allowance) and about 96cm/37.8 inches long. Remember you can always make them shorter later if you so desire.

Step 4 – cutting out the straps

The straps are 9cm/3.5 inches wide and 30cm/11.8 inches long, including seam allowance.

Step – cutting out the extra ruffles

The extra organza ruffles are 9cm/3.5 inches long, including seam/hem allowance.

How to sew the pockets

Step 1

Sew the pocket pieces to the pocket openings wrong sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. Trim off the excess seam allowance and press so that the fabric is folded around the seam you just sewed.

Step 2

Now sew the pocket pieces to the pocket openings right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance, enclosing the previous seam into this new one. Iron/press the seams flat.

How to sew the neckline & hem facings

Step 1

Attach the fusible interfacing to the neckline and hem facings on the wrong side of the fabric using an iron.

Step 2

Sew the hem facing pieces wrong sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance on each side. Trim off the excess seam allowance and press so that the seam you just sewed is folded into the fabric. Repeat this step for the neckline facing pieces.

Step 3

Now sew the bottom facing pieces right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance on each side, enclosing the previous seam into this new one. Iron/press the seams flat. Repeat again for the neckline facing pieces.

Step 4

I chose to finish off the facing edges that won’t be sewn to the neckline with a zig zag stitch. But you can overlock those raw edges or finish them off with binding, if you prefer. I also used white thread where possible for this project because I was running low on my red thread!

How to sew the organza ruffles, straps, & ties

Step 1

Sew the bottom ruffle pieces wrong sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. Trim off the excess seam allowance and press so that the seam you just sewed is folded into the fabric.

Step 2

Now sew the bottom ruffle pieces right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance, enclosing the previous seam into this new one. Iron/press the seams flat.

Step 3

Sew each of the ties wrong sides together (along the longest edge and one of the short edges) with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. Trim off the excess seam allowance and press so that the seam you just sewed is folded into the fabric.

Step 4

Then sew each of the ties right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance, enclosing the previous seam into this new one. Iron/press the ties after turning them so the seam is on the inside.

Step 5

Sew each of the straps wrong sides together (along the longest edge) with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. Trim off the excess seam allowance and press so that the seam you just sewed is folded into the fabric.

Step 5

Then sew each of the ties right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance, enclosing the previous seam into this new one. Iron/press the straps after turning them out so the seam is on the inside.

Step 6

Fold the hem of each ruffle about 0.4cm/ inch and sew it down. Then fold over again another 0.4cm/ inch and sew that down too. Repeat until all the organza ruffles are hemmed.

How to sew the satin & organza slip dress together

Step 1

Sew the ruffles to the slip dress pieces right sides together, as close to the edge of the organza as possible. But not too close or else the organza can slip out of the stitches. Then iron/press so that the ruffles are facing downwards

Step 2

Now sew as close to the folded edge at the top of the ruffle to secure it. Remember to also sew the ruffles down at the neckline/sides of the dress. Repeat until all the ruffles are sewn onto the front and back slip dress pieces. You can arrange the ruffles any way you like, use the photo below as inspiration.

Step 3

Sew the sides of the slip dress wrong sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. Trim off the excess seam allowance and press so that the fabric is around the seam you just sewed. Near the curved parts by the pockets you can cut notches into the seam so it will lay flat, as shown in the image below.

Step 4

Insert your organza waist ties about 16cm/6.3 inches down (or wherever your natural waist is) from the top of the dress. Then secure the ties by sewing the sides of the slip dress right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inch seam allowance, enclosing the previous seam into this new one. Iron/press the seams flat.

Step 5

Sew the neckline facing to the neckline right sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance, inserting your straps in-between the facing and the outer dress. In order for your straps to go upwards once you have turned out the neckline, the straps must be inserted at an angle, as shown in the photo below. Trust me, you don’t want to know how many times I had to redo the straps for this dress! You can also cut off a bit at the points of the neckline to make it easier to lay flat once you have turned it out.

Once you have turned out the neckline, iron it flat.

Step 5

Then sew the seam and the facing together. This is called understitching. Due to the curves of the neckline you may not be able to sew along the whole facing so just do as much as you can.

Step 6

Sew the bottom organza ruffle to the slip dress hem right sides together, along the edges of the fabrics. This is called a staystitch and it is used when sewing more than 2 layers of fabric together, especially when you are working with a slippery fabric such as organza. My organza ruffle ended up being too wide for my slip dress so I added some pleats to the ruffle so it would fit.

Step 7

Sew the hem facing to the slip dress hem with 0.5cm/0.2 inch seam allowance. The right side of the hem facing should be touching the wrong side of the organza ruffle.

Step 8

Now sew the understitching. Remember you must only sew the facing and the seam together, NOT the slip dress or the organza ruffle.

Step 9

Last things last, if your facings, particularly the hem facing, are not laying flat you can hand sew the facing seams to the dress seams. And even do some small stitches along the rest of the facing to keep the hem facing upwards. And without further ado, you are done!!

More Free Fairycore Sewing Tutorials

Here is a simpler, more casual fairycore dress: my mini slip dress with adjustable tie straps.

If you are looking for a more casual fairycore dress to sew, there’s another one of my free sewing patterns, a maxi dress with French seams, pockets, as well as elasticated straps and a waistband.

Otherwise I have two other skirt tutorials, both of which include pockets of course: the tiered maxi skirt, and the simple half-circle skirt.

Or, if skirts and dresses are too feminine for you, there’s always the simple shorts with pockets, or my patchwork pants tutorial, and the summery fairycore trousers with ribbon side ties!

A sewing project that’s quick and easy but also fits the whimsical fairycore vibe is scrunchies. And I have tutorials for 2 variations: a simple scrunchie and a ruffle scrunchie.

You can also give a garment that’s already in your closet a whimsical fairycore makeover using this tutorial for flower cut outs with ribbon ties.

DIY not AI

If you are sick and tired of being bamboozled by those too perfect AI images and want some inspiration from actual human beings, my Pinterest board, DIY NOT AI, awaits. This is the link, AKA magical portal, that will take you there. DIY NOT AI is also a group board that is OPEN TO CONTRIBUTORS!!! Whether you’re a crocheter, seamstress, knitter, or any other kind of DIY/handicraft creator this is The Place for you to promote your work to people who appreciate REAL quality over quantity. So what are you waiting for? Shoot me a dm on Pinterest to be added!

And that’s all for today folks! If you have any questions please comment below and I, or perhaps a kind internet stranger, will assist you.

Lots of love & light,

Maria

Leave a Reply

Scroll to Top

Discover more from Spirited Maria

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading