Hello, and welcome to my 5th free (sun)dress sewing pattern. As you can see by the title, this time I decided to experiment with an asymmetrical hemline. I think asymmetry as a design detail is SO incredibly whimsical and fairycore and I’m glad to finally be making an everyday garment with this detail.
Although it didn’t take me long to decide on the skirt design for this sun dress it did take me a while to decide what the bodice and neckline should look like. I searched through so many examples on Pinterest but just couldn’t really decide on one. So I ended up starting to sew this dress anyway. Then while I was cutting out the skirt I decided to make the bodice of this dress have what are basically bra cups made from semi-circles. If that sounds confusing don’t worry as all will be explained further on in this tutorial. Of course, I knew from the beginning that this dress would obviously have pockets. And that I would sew French seams since I still don’t own an overlocker lol. But I do love the look of the French seams even if it essentially doubles my sewing time.
Although I made drawstrings to tighten the under bust and waist of this dress you can definitely use an elastic that’s about 1cm/0.4 inches wide instead. You’ll just need to adapt some of the steps where I sewed the channels for the drawstrings to the bodice since you won’t need openings (that don’t get sewn closed) for the elastic.
Anyways.
Happy sewing!
You will need:
- chalk or a fabric marker
- fabric scissors
- 138 by 141cm/1.5 by 1.5 yards lightweight woven fabric (plus some extra scraps)
- thread that matches your chosen fabric
- a safety pin
- sewing machine
- hand sewing needle (optional)
- an unpicker
How to Cut Out Your Fabric Pieces for the Asymmetrical Sundress
Since I am doing French seams my seam allowance is 1.5cm/0.6 inches but if you’re doing regular seams you just need a seam allowance of 1cm/0.4 inches on all the sides.
Step 1 – The Asymmetrical Skirt Piece
My asymmetrical skirt piece is 110 by 123cm/43.3 by 48.4 inches. To cut out the hole for the waist I folded the skirt piece in half and then in half again to make a square-like shape, matching the edges of the fabric each time.
First measure around your hips, then add a total seam allowance of 6cm/2.4 inches (ONLY if you are going to be sewing the pockets) plus an extra 6cm/2.4 inches for ease.
My hips are 87cm/34.3 inches so I’m going to add the extra 12cm/4.7 inches so take that final width and divide it by pi (3.14) and by 2 to get your radius.
So 99/3.14/2 gives me a radius of 15.76 which I round up to a whole number, in this case 16cm/6.3 inches because its better to be too big than too small.
Only do this part if you want to sew pockets. Once you have cut out the circle for your waist fold your skirt in half so the circle becomes a semi-circle. Then cut your skirt piece into 2 pieces so that you have a front and back skirt.
I also chose to curve the side seams towards the pocket opening so that the pockets would be less visible. If you do this make sure that the pocket opening on the skirt matches your actual pocket opening. The pockets are placed about 9cm/3.5 inches down from the top of the skirt.
Step 2 – The Bodice Cups
For the cups for the bodice I simply cut the circle from Step 1 with a radius of 16cm/6.3 inches in half to make 2 semi-circles. If your bust is on the larger side you may need to cut a circle with a larger radius that will fit you.
Step 3 – The Rest of the Bodice
For the rest of the bodice I cut a width of 106cm/41.7 inches and a length of 15cm/5.9 inches both including seam allowance of 1.5cm/0.6 inches on all sides. The bodice should be from just under your bust to your waist.
Step 4 – The Pockets
The pocket opening is 16cm/6.3 inches and here is a picture below so you can copy the shape I drew. Since I’m doing French seams I prefer to have a curved pocket. Remember to include your seam allowance when you cut out your 4 pocket pieces.
Step 5 – The Straps, Drawstrings and Waistband Elastic Channel
Cut out strips of about 3.5cm/1.4 inches wide for the straps. Make them as long as you need, but if in doubt make them a bit longer.
You also need to cut out 2 drawstrings (1 for the under bust and 1 for the waist) with a width of 3.5cm/1.4 inches. The length needs to be considerably longer than your ribcage/waist circumference so you can tie the drawstrings into nice bows.
The elastic channels need to be the width of the bodice and you need to cut 2; 1 for the under bust and 1 for the waist. So my elastic channels are 106cm/41.7 inches long and 3.5cm/1.4 inches wide.
How to Actually Sew the Asymmetrical Sundress
How to Sew the Pockets
Step 1
Sew the pocket about 9cm/3.5 inches down from the top of the skirt wrong sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inches seam allowance. Repeat for the other 3 pockets.
Step 2
Trim off the excess seam allowance then fold the pocket so that the right sides of the skirt and pocket are together and press/iron. Then sew with 1cm/0.4 inches seam allowance. Repeat for the other 3 pockets.
Step 3
Press your pocket opening seams. Then sew the pockets and the sides of the skirt together wrong sides together with 0.5cm/0.2 inches seam allowance. Repeat for the other side as well.
Step 4
Trim off the excess seam allowance then cut notches along the curves of the pockets so that the seams lay flat when they’re turned out.
Step 5
Now turn out the pockets and skirt so that the right sides are together, press, and then sew with 1cm/0.4 inches seam allowance.
How to Hem the Asymmetrical Skirt
Step 1
Cut off part of the seam at an angle at the bottom of your skirt to reduce bulk when you sew the hem.
Step 2
Fold over 0.5cm/0.2 inches on all of the skirt bottom edges and sew it down.
Step 3
Now fold over another 0.5cm/0.2 inches so that the raw edges are hidden away and sew that down too. Repeat for all the edges of the bottom of the asymmetrical skirt.
How to Sew the Straps and Drawstring Ties of the Sun Dress
Step 1
Fold the strap piece in half right sides together and sew as close to the raw edges of the fabric as you can. Then use the safety pin to turn it out. Repeat for the other strap piece and 2 drawstring ties.
Step 2
Use your iron to press the strap pieces and the drawstring ties flat.
Step 3
Fold the raw edges at each end of each drawstring tie and sew them closed. You can either use your sewing machine or do it by hand.
How to Sew the Cups for the Sun Dress
Step 1
Fold each semi-circle cup piece in half right sides together to form a quarter circle. Then cut a notch of about 1-1.5cm/ inches along the fold at the pointy tip of each cup.
Insert a strap into each cup and sew along the tip to secure it. Then sew with 0.5cm/0.2 inches seam allowance along the open side of the cup.
Step 2
Turn out your cups and press them flat.
How to Put the Asymmetrical Sun Dress Together
Step 1
Sew each cup to the right side of each end of the bodice, about 1.5cm/0.6 inches away from the end with 0.5cm/0.2 inches seam allowance.
Step 2
Now sew the drawstring channel for the to the top of the bodice rights sides together with 1cm/0.4 inches seam allowance. Press this seam so that it points downwards.
Step 3
Then sew a hem of 0.5cm/0.2 inches on each end of the bodice.
Step 4
Now sew the ends of the bodice right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inches seam allowance, only from the drawstring channel seam and downwards. Press the seam open.
Step 5
Sew the hems for the drawstring channel openings down. Make sure not to sew it to the bodice or the cups.
Step 6
Now fold over and press the drawstring channel hem down about 0.7cm/0.3 inches, making sure it will still be wide enough to fit the drawstring. Then sew it down as close as you can to the folded edge.
Step 7
Then sew the bodice to the asymmetrical skirt, right sides together with 1cm/0.4 inches seam allowance.
You can also attach the waist drawstring channel as well or do it separately. The drawstring channel must be right side against the wrong side of the skirt. You can trim the seam allowance a bit if you want to as well.
Press the seam you just sewed so that it faces upwards.
For the ends of the drawstring channel, simply fold over about 0.5cm/0.2 inches when you start attaching the channel. Then place the other end of the channel over the beginning part and sew over it. You can also sew over the ends as shown in the images below.
Step 8
Use your unpicker to unpick a gap in the centre bodice seam that’s slightly bigger than 1cm/0.4 inches. Then sew around this gap to secure it. This will be the hole for the waist drawstring.
Step 9
Fold over the drawstring channel hem by 0.5cm/0.2 inches and press. Then sew the channel closed as close as you can to the folded hem. Use the safety pin to insert your drawstrings into their respective channels.
How to Put Together the Adjustable Straps
Step 1
Cut small pieces about 3cm/1.2 inches long from the ends of each strap. Then put each small strap piece through a circle adjuster piece and sew the ends together.
Step 2
Now insert the strap piece attached to the cup through the other adjuster piece and the circle as shown in the image below and sew to secure it. Repeat for the other strap.
Step 3
Once again, use your unpicker to create 2 gaps at the back of the dress at the top so you can insert the loops there. You may need to try on the dress to determine the best placement for your straps. Then insert each loop and sew across to secure it to the dress.
And then, you have created your very own asymmetrical sun dress!
More Free Fairycore Sewing Tutorials
If you’d like to make more dresses, you can find all of my tutorials for whimsical fairycore dresses over here. And yes, all of the dresses do have pockets!
So I only have 2 sewing tutorials for tops: a satin top that also has adjustable straps and the simple turtleneck with ruching side ties.
If you are looking for fairycore skirts here are the simple half-circle skirt, my easy gathered skirt, or the tiered maxi skirt pattern that all have an elastic waistband and pockets.
And if skirts or dresses are too feminine for you, there’s always the free patterns for patchwork pants, simple shorts, or the summery trousers with ribbon side ties! All of which include elastic waistbands and pockets.
There is also the tutorial for flower cut-outs which are an easy way to upcycle an existing garment into something more whimsically fairycore.
And if you’re looking for quick & easy fairycore sewing project that you can gift or even sell look no further than the fairycore scrunchies.
Don’t forget that your under garments can be whimsical too! This easy lace bralette is the perfect place to start.
Last (but certainly not least) here’s the tutorial for a backpack with a lining and quite a few zips (and pockets!)
DIY not AI
If you are sick and tired of being bamboozled by those too perfect AI images and want some inspiration from actual human beings, my Pinterest board, DIY NOT AI, awaits. This is the link, AKA magical portal, that will take you there. DIY NOT AI is also a group board that is OPEN TO CONTRIBUTORS!!! Whether you’re a crocheter, seamstress, knitter, or any other kind of DIY/handicraft creator this is The Place for you to promote your work to people who appreciate REAL quality over quantity. So what are you waiting for? Shoot me a dm on Pinterest to be added!
If you have any more ideas for sewing patterns you would like to see from me just let me know in the comments below!
Lots of love & light,
Maria